Hi--

>> If this is the early-style (non-AI) 28mm f3.5, it will vignette
>> slightly with even just a thin-rim Nikkor filter, and adding the
>> HN-2 shade will worsen the vignette. Either use a filter or the
>> shade, but not both, alas... If this is the later (AI/AIS) lens,
>> it is a much better lens, and it will not vignette with both a
>> filter (Nikkor, Hoya, or Nikko have thin rims) and the HN-2
>> in place. BTW, it is the thick metal mount of the rubber shade
>> that is most likely causing most of the vignetting, since the
>> older optics extend to the edge of the 52mm filter thread.

>Thanks for your advice regarding lenshoods. I am not sure whether my lens
>is AI or not except that it has a prong to couple to the Nikkormat
>lightmeter.
>You say if this is the later AI/AIS lens, that it is a much better lens.
>How do you mean this? Optically or convenience wise?

Optically - sharper in the edges/corners (and without the vignetting
problem).

>You are correct in assuming that the lens element comes right out to the
>rim of the 52mm filter thread, but I would have thought this to be an
>advantage in reducing vignetting.
>Maybe you would like to elaborate.
"Hans Gelton"

Lenses are designed to minimize vignette, regardless of the
front element size, but there is an advantage when using filters
and shades in having the front element smaller than the thread
size (think of the geometries - if your [early-style, BTW] lens
must clear a 75 degree cone coming off the whole front glass
surface, and that cone is already cut a bit by the filter threads
on the lens, adding a cylinder [the filter rim, and/or the shade
mounting end] to the lens front further cuts into the cone of
coverage - but if the front element is much smaller than the
thread size, a much longer cylinder can be added to the lens
front before it will cut into the angle of view of the lens.)