On Sat, 14 Dec 2002 22:16:23 +0100, "Niels J. Larsen"
>"Neuman - Ruether"
>news:3e0072d3.2442048@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu...
>> On Fri, 13 Dec 2002 23:40:22 +0100, "Niels J. Larsen"
>>
>>
>> >I own a Nikon F80S, a 80-200 f/2.8 AF ED, a 28-80 f/3.5-5.6D and a 50
>> >f/1.4D.
>> Whether tubes or achromats (both used at smaller
>> stops) perform better depends on the particular lenses
>> used - and the two you mention do not perform well
>> on tubes (at least the 80-200 used near 200mm - and
>> it would be very awkward to use...). The 80-200mm f2.8
>> Nikkor does perform well used with two-element
>> achromats, though big ones are not cheap (Canon 500D
>> is one that can be used...). BTW, you will not want
>> to use AF for macro, simplifying the choice in tubes,
>> and you may want to consider TTL flash, mounted close
>> to the end of the lens, using a remote TTL cord.
>Why doesn't the Nikkor 50mm AF f/1.4D and the 80-200mm f/2.8 AF ED perform
>well on tubes ?
Little-reported, but lens performance is often very
distance-sensitive, and some lenses (particularly
"speed" lenses without "close-range correction",
like the 50mm f1.4, and asymmetrical designs, like
"retrofocus" wide-angles, "telephoto" long lenses,
and zooms) do not perform the same way even over
their normal focus range, let alone when they are
forced to focus closer... There are some examples
at www.David-Ruether-Photography.com/slemn.html, where poor
close (or distant...) performance relative to other
distances is noted.
>The basic reason I asked about the Kenko tubes is that they are supposed to
>make AF and metering work.
>I am sure that I want to be able to meter WITH the tubes, but AF is - as you
>say - most likely not needed.
If you use TTL flash for illumination, ambient
metering ability is not important... For high-
magnification work with moving subjects, flash
may be the only practical light source... (See
www.David-Ruether-Photography.com/phun.html, "Bugs" for
some examples of both flash and available-light
macro work with insects...)
>Based on this, are there any other types of tubes I can consider (if this is
>the way to go), since I find Nikon's own tubes to be way too expensive.
Older tubes, like Nikon "M" rings, and the set
of Nikon tubes can work, as can old 2X converters
with the glass removed (I have all of these for sale
[and much more - at www.David-Ruether-Photography.com/fs.htm],
but this may not be practical for you...).