In article <32DEEB8B.4C1E@acpub.duke.edu>, cs5@acpub.duke.edu says...

>I am using Canon Elan IIe with 28-105 USM and 100-300 USM. I am pleased
>about the results. But recently, I noticed that I want sharper images.
>But I can not afford the better and more expensive lenses, right now.
>Can I get the sharper images by upgrading the films to the professional
>ones? I am just a hobbist, so I am using the consumer level films. Which
>films are good for the landscapes and for the protraits?

Assuming that your technique is not at fault (and this is a BIG
assumption - I recommend buying a small-but-good-and-cheap chrome-
cased fold-out 10X magnifyier [they are sold for field use in
biology classes] and inspecting negatives and slides directly
[you should quickly learn how to get the best performance from
the gear you have...] - aperture selection, shutter speed selection
[and hand-holding or tripod technique], focus accuracy [AF does NOT
guarantee accurate focus!], and film quality can affect final
sharpness as much as lens choice), using slower film can improve
results under conditions suitable for it. BTW, there is no inherent
quality difference in terms of sharpness and grain in using "pro"
film. For highest sharpness, try the 25-100 ASA films of Kodak
and Fuji (others may be good, also). For best results, use a tripod,
f11 or so, mirror lock-up (if available), careful manual focus,
and very slow film. If you are using print film, make sure the
printer is printing the negatives sharply (the 10X magnifier on
the print should clearly show the film grain sharply rendered).

>BTW, when I was reading a photo mag article, I found the following
>statement about the films such as Kodak Ektachrome 64, Agfacolor optima
>100 & 200, etc.
> "No reciprocity compensation is needed for esposure times from
> 1/2 - 1/1000."
>What does this statement mean? Is there anyone to enlignten me?

It is hard for the film mfgrs. to make all the emulsion layers
in a color film all exactly the same speed under all conditions,
and it is hard to make an emulsion remain the same speed at all
exposure times. As a result, with very long (or very short)
exposures, film "slows down", requiring extra exposure, and it
can shift in color balance, requiring filtration for neutrality.
Hope This Helps