In article <19970310141401.JAA20540@ladder01.news.aol.com>, tglass0000@aol.com says...

>I'm interested in shooting subjects with Ultra Violet light sources.
>I own a Wildfire Ultra Violet light, and I would like to shoot some table
>top shots and portraits using film stocks that are UV sensitive. I'm
>searching for effects that are similar to Infra Red shots... I just want
>to try the UV look in the studio and see if it's different.
>
>I've read an article on UV photography that suggests using a 3200 ASA
>Black and White film (Kodak T-MAX P3200) as well as EASTMAN Fine Grain
>Release Positive (5302). Has anyone out there tried these for UV? Tips
>on exposure? Any suggestions as to other stocks I should try?
>
>I've also read that I need to use a lens that's going to pass a lot of UV.
> Since most lenses are treated with a coating that blocks UV, where can I
>find lenses that are not coated?

Nikon and Hasselblad both make (expensive!) UV-passing quartz lenses,
as I recall, but this off-the-wall idea may be worth a try: tape a strong
close-up lens on a bellows (no other optics), and stop it well down
(maybe f22-32) with a removable (for focusing/composing) piece of black
paper with a hole cut in it (the right size for the f22-32 f-stop ---
FL = distance between the lens and film; FL/f32=diameter of hole wanted
[for rough figuring]).
Since the CU lens has relatively little glass in it, it should pass
a fair amount of UV. Using the normally VERY soft single-element lens
at f32 or so should produce passable sharpness (and DOF! ;-) for at
least some experiments. BTW, the above is for actually shooting with
UV light, but that may not be necessary if the UV light on the subject
causes a visible-light effect - it can be photographed by normal-light
gear/film, since you see the effect by normal means...
Hope This Helps