Hi--

Gerald Sylvester wrote in message <63493a$190$1@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>...

>I have been using a couple of inherited cameras (hold your laughter),
>a Konica Autoreflex T and Autoreflex TC. They have served my dad
>faithfully for 15+ years and now myself for another 5+ years but
>recently have been giving them a lot more use lately...probably
>on average 4-8 rolls a week. Yea I know that isn't that much
>but these are old cameras and the bodies and lenses have been
>taking their share of abuse.


Why be defensive/insecure about these cameras? They were
good-quality bodies from a good company - and the Konica lenses
were fine. There is nothing at all wrong with using good older gear
(it is often the best way to get affordable first-class photo gear).

>In the past month I've had the following problems with my
>whole system. Can I fix these? How difficult of repairs
>are these? What do I need to know before I get
>my hands dirty. Please realize I can't see spending $100
>per item for something that is easy to fix myself.

You may wind up damaging/destroying this gear while
working on it without much knowledge, but what better/cheaper
way to gain that knowledge than by working on these pieces?
Proceed carefully and slowly, with a cleared work area, keeping
track of ALL parts/screws as they are removed (and being ready
to listen for the landing location of the part that goes "sproing!" ;-).
A good trick for me is to loosen just the screws that appear to be
associated with a single part, then see if wiggling that part bodes
well for its removal without "opening a can of worms" - there is
nothing more disheartening in "repair" than being suddenly and
unexpectedly presented with a heap of loose parts that fall out
when a critical part is removed (be careful about removing screws
that hold diaphragm blades in place!!! ;-)

>So the problems:
>
>1. Vivitar 70-210/2.8-4 Series 1 Macro 1:3.5 (No. 22506300).
>Just found out the ring with the aperature numbers on it
>is loose. I now have it duct taped steady but the aperature
>ring does not click into the (whole) f-stops anymore. Is
>this a simple tighten the screws. Which screws?

There is often a tiny ball-bearing (spring-loaded under the
aperture ring) that drops out when the rear bayonette is
removed to allow the aperture ring to come off... it may be
missing. It fits into slots in the rear surface of the ring to
give the "click" positions. Nikon uses a flat leaf spring with
a bump in it - can't get lost. ;-)

>2. Konica Hexanon AR 50mm f1.7 lens. Aperature has slowed
>down. It opens fine but you can tell the aperature doesn't spring
>closed as fast as my other lenses. Is this a simple, open the
>lens and oil it? What kind of oil? Where?

The problem may be oil in the wrong place - on the diaphragm
(operate the diaphragm a few times, and look for oil residue on
the front or rear of the diaphragm). If this is the cause of the
problem, and not a weak actuator spring (which can sometimes
be shortened to restore tension), you can often remove the rear
glass section as a whole to get access to the diaphragm. Use
cotton swabs and lighter fluid and/or alcohol on the blades (it is a
rather lengthy and scarey process to get them reasonably clean
while in place - and to clean the glass surface under it
afterwards...).

>3. Konica Hexanon AR 52mm F1.8 lens. Front barrel is loose.
>(If you screw on/offa lens hood or filter, the barrel will
>rotate as well). Is this also just a matter of tightening
>some screws? Where are the screws located?

Try just tightening the front barrel part - fat rubber bands on the
outside help (sometimes there is a tiny retaining screw
revealed when the lens is focused close). BTW, vibration is
a camera/lens killer - try to keep a soft pad between camera
gear and car/airplane floors (and avoid motorcycles...! ;-).

>Thanks for your help. Can't wait to get some professional
>equipment made to take abuse. Right now I'm in the process
>of saving for a new system but until I get at least $3 grand
>down, I won't even consider anything and that is barely enough
>for a system.

Hmmm, "professional" equipment is what works for making
money - it doesn't need to be recent gear or the best gear.
I would look at older Nikon mid or high-end gear - often
affordable, won't lose its resale value if taken care of, is
good "pro" gear, and is mostly compatible with current
Nikon gear if you do start making money and want to spend
more on gear without having to dump what you have...
A good starter outfit is two bodies, a decent flash, and good
35mm and 85mm lenses (about f2). Later, add a good 24
or 20mm and a 70/80-200/210mm zoom (preferably f2.8, but
a constant f4 will do). The best rule of thumb that I know
for pro gear is: KEEP IT SIMPLE. As to "abuse", the best
investment you can make in camera gear is not abusing
what you have...;-) Use UV filters and caps for lens protection,
keep things clean and avoid dirt, avoid vibration and knocks
to gear.
Hope This Helps
David Ruether - http://www.fcinet.com/ruether