In article <5j56jk$7vs@gamera.umd.edu>, errand@Glue.umd.edu says...

> I am looking for information on a few things. I currently own an N90s, a
>Sigma 28-70/2.8, and a Tokina 80-400/4.5-5.6. I like both lenses. The only
>beef I have with either of them is the Tokina. It is very slow to focus (
>not surprising because it's design is such that there is a-lot of mass to
>move to focus) . The Tokina's closest focus distance is 9 feet, which is also
>not great.
> I am finding that I want to do wide angle shots, and macro shots. I am
>looking for recommendations on wide angle lenses, and macro lenses.

The 20mm f2.8 and 60mm f2.8 Nikkors come to mind immediately...

>1) Macro Lens
> I have used a Nikon 60mm Macro. It was quick and sharp, but I had to
> get right down on my subject. I would like a longer lens, with as
> good, or better, picture quality. Looking around I find
>Nikon Price Filter size Repro. rate
>60/2.8 Macro $329 62mm 1:1
>105/2.8 Macro $547 52mm 1:1
>Tokina
>100/2.8 ATX Macro 55mm ???
>Sigma
>50/2.8 Macro $195 52mm ???
>90/2.8 Macro $289 52mm ???
>Tamron
>SP AF90/2.8 Macro 1:1 $439 55mm 1:1 ( Just out, but specs > > look nice )
> Which ones are advocated ? Should I get a closeup lens adapter and put it
>on one of the lenses I own instead of buying one of these ? What kind of image
>quality would that give me ?

Probably not very good. Any of the lenses listed above is likely to be good
(though not better than the really excellent 60mm Nikkor for macro...),
though AF is not very useful for extreme close-ups, so a 2X on a 60 can
provide more front space for a given magnification, and excellent performance
to 2x magnification (stopped down). For simplicity, any of the 90-105mm
lenses are likely to have better image quality than the lenses you have now...

>2) Wide angle lens
> Since I have 28-70 covered, I am looking for something wider, in the
> 18-20 range. I would prefer a zoom, but do not want to spend a
> fortune. Looking around I find
>Nikon
>16/2.8D $689 ???
>20/2.8D $450 62mm
>20-35/2.8D ??? 77mm
>Sigma
>14/3.5 $590 ???
>18-35/3.5-4.5 $390 ???
>Tamron
>17/3.5 $369 ???
>20-40/2.7-3.5 $671 ???
>Tokina
>17/3.5 $370 ???
>20-35/3.5-4.5 II $270 ???
> Are any of these any good ?

This one is easy: Buy the Nikkor 20mm f2.8 (used, if necessary, to keep the
price down...) - it will outperform the other lenses, and do it in a small
package and at a moderate price. (BTW, the Nikkor 16 is a fisheye...)

>Which ones should I avoid ?

Um, most of the others....?;-) Really good super-wides are hard to find,
even as primes. With zooms, the compromises are too apparent, if you
care about edge/corner performance (though you may not...;-).

>Can I put a
>protector on any of these without it showing up at the corners of the
>picture ?
>Which filter should I put on it (manufacturer/model ) ?

Buy a filter with a thin metal rim (Hoya, Nikon, Vivitar...).

>What is the difference between a UV Haze 1 filter and a UV protector ?

None. UV, UV-Haze, and "Clear Protector" are essentially the same on
complex lenses - they do nothing but protect the lens (assuming a
good-quality filter with a well designed and made rim). The relative
glass quality of name brands is almost irrelevant if the filter is to be
used only on a wide-angle lens. Some people argue for multicoating, but
I think that is more sales hype (under virtually all circumstances) than
a real concern, so long as the filter is at least single-coated. BTW,
"skylight" filters are often offered instead of UV filters, but these
have a slight salmon color (which is added to everything...), and the
color varies with brand so it is unwise to mix brands of skylight
filters if your lenses are color matched and you care about having the
same color balance among different lenses (a good reason for staying
with Nikon is the excellent color consistency among their lenses...).
BTW, with the 20mm Nikkor, I choose not to use a shade since it does
so little, and makes the lens harder to cap and pack. A well-placed
hand or finger solves most problems with this low-flare lens.
"Hope This Helps", or.., formerly, "Bob Neuman", or.., now, "David Ruether"