Your points are well taken, for low-end video gear...
I'm used to cleaning high-quality still-camera lenses
and filters, and your concerns are not relevant to
these, but it is conceivable that a bottom-end
camcorder would have a plastic front element surface
or solvent-sensitive mount edge - or that a plastic
filter (ugh!) would be encountered. Even with these,
though, water-based solutions like Windex and detergents
are safe, I find. Unfortunately, with the advent of
multicoating, lens surfaces have become harder to
clean. Coatings are quite insensitive to solvents,
though, so your concerns are not well-founded there,
in my experience. As I pointed out, liquids should
never be applied directly to lenses so as to avoid
having them slip inside lenses - and I generally
recommend the use of a good-quality UV or skylight
filter (and "name" brand but Tiffen...) for lens
protection (a polarizer or ND will rob the user
of often-useful light, so it should not be used
for mere "protection" - the UV or skylight can offer
protection with minimal losses otherwise, and be
replaced with a polarizer or ND when these are
appropriate). The most useful "cleaner" for video:
a large hand air-syringe (NOT "canned air"!!!).

On Tue, 2 Oct 2001 23:06:26 -0700, "Steve" wrote:
>
>With all due respect, you should never use a solvent on a lens element or
>filter.
>
>Glass lenses and filters are coated to reduce internal reflections, and a
>solvent can remove or damage this film. Also, the lens elements are glass
>and the lens assembly is mostly aluminum, there are still some plastic parts
>inside that can be damaged by solvents.
>
>Plastic lenses will be permanently fogged if you use a solvent cleaner.
>
>The best method is to never expose the lens to contaminants. Use a
>polarizing or ND filter. If it gets damaged or scratched, your only out $50
>to $100 max.

>"Neuman - Ruether" wrote in message
>news:3bbdc6b8.2957477@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu...

>> But, but, but.....! ;-)
>> We all guessed it was ***inside***, given its consistency
>> (all your shooting must be under the same illumination
>> level...;-). Also, unless there is serious "gunk" on the
>> outer element (with enough density to seriously block
>> light), we would not expect to see it except under difficult
>> lighting conditions). Also, if it was that bad, you could
>> about *peel* it off the front surface...! ;-) So, it is
>> with some surprise I read the above...;-) BTW, there are
>> safer methods for cleaning lenses (they can be scratched
>> easily). I prefer Kodak lens tissue, first dampened with
>> breath, Windex, or lighter-fluid (depending on how
>> bad it is), then cleaned with successively gentler
>> solvents. NEVER apply liquid directly to the lens (to
>> avoid having it run in behind), always wash your hands
>> before starting (with a detergent, to avoid adding oil
>> smears), always breath *up* onto a lens surface (to avoid
>> silver "spit" spots), never rub hard (to avoid scratching
>> the lens surface), and use only one tissue at a time, but
>> change it often in the process... AND, NEVER USE A SILICON
>> BASED "CLEANER"!!! (These look great when first use, but
>> quickly fog, and they are VERY difficult to remove...) A
>> large air-syringe (without brush) is useful for removing
>> loose surface dust.