In article <530o0o$416@ratatosk.uio.no>, k.t.nguyen@econ.uio.no says...
>In article <530en2$oll@butch.lmsc.lockheed.com>, dave.herzstein@lmco.com >(Dave Herzstein) says:

>>I've used an Omnibounce on a Canon 430EZ. The results are very pleasing IF:
>>1) you are within 10 feet of your subject, and
>>2a) there is a low (8 foot) ceiling, or
>>2b) you are close to a wall, and
>>3) either the ceiling or wall is white.
>>Use of the Omnibounce greatly reduces the "guide number" of the flash and
>>relies on room reflections to illuminate the subject.

>But won't some of the light be directed against the subject? I mean, some
>of the light must "hit" the subject when the flash is pointed that way.
>
>When you say that the result are very pleasing, what do you mean? Is the
>subject evenly lit with a soft flash (warm) instead of the hard, direct >flash? If so, then it's ideal for me.
>
>Anybody else know of other good flash diffusers?

Um, I recommend rereading DH's post above, carefully, since it really covers the limitations of flash "diffusers" nicely... Flash "diffusion" is a myth,
generally, since the flash shadow edge sharpness is determined by distance
of the light source from the subject (and subject-to-background distance),
by whether or not there are usefully close reflecting surfaces, and by the
effective light source size. In other words, a totally diffused 3" flash
outdoors with no reflecting surfaces but the subject 10' away, and a wall
10' behind the subject will produce the same image as an undiffused 3"
flash under the same conditions (though the diffuser will cut the light
output considerably, with no gain). Diffusers are effective only if they
also make the light source size effectively far larger (everything else
being equal), or if they are used very near the subject while increasing
the effective light source size somewhat, or if they make possible the use
of reflecting surfaces very near the subject. Commercially available "diffusers" made for small on-camera flashes do not generally work the
way people imagine (there is no magic, darn! ;-), and for those situations
where they might prove useful (shooting close to the subject, or shooting
a subject which has nearby useable reflecting surfaces), a card taped to
the flash, or a medium Styrofoam cup popped over the upturned flash head
works at least as well as what you would pay money for.
Hope This Helps