On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 18:36:55 GMT, gouldson@cytanet.com.cy (Allan Gouldson) wrote:

>I've just shot a couple of rolls of film in a museum
>in Athens where the use of flash is banned. When
>I had them developed there is a redish/orange cast
>on the prints ( the focus/shapness is fine).
> I now realize that this is due to using
>daylight film under tungsten lights and I should have
>used an 80 series filter.
>
>My question is , how do you know whether to use 80A,
>80B or 80C in a particular lighting situation. Is there an
>easy way to estimate and/or measure the colour temperature
>of lighting.

For color-negative shooting, such filtering is unnecessary
(go back to the printer and ask for better color balance
in the prints [though overexposing the film 2/3 to one
stop in the future will generally give the printer more to
work with in making well-corrected prints from film shot
under other than daylight-balance illumination]). If you
must use filters (BAD printer...! ;-), an 80C is a good
choice for tungsten since it robs you of relatively little
light and leaves a pleasantly natural-looking warmth
(instead of the daylight-cold of full correction...).
For flourescent light, full correction is often possible
with a cc30 or 40Magenta filter, but an FL-D is good enough
for print film, or when there is a mix of daylight and
flourescent light (though, here again, with some overexposure
and a decent printing job, filtering is unnecessary for
good color in snapshots).