In article <4es12p$2j3@rebecca.albany.edu>, dr8192@CNSVAX.ALBANY.EDU says... (Post about the 80A tungsten correction filter deleted)

> You don't have to lose two whole stops, which would
> be suicidal in available light low light work. An
> 82A or B filter absorbs only 1/2 to 2/3 stops and is
> enough to bring your image to the point where the lab
> will give you full color, but with a warm glow. This
> is far better than the white-yellow-orange-black pix
> you get with no filter, looks natural enough to most
> viewers judgement. I use it with 1600 C-41 and speed
> of 2.8 or better. Sometimes I even get to f:4.0 on
> the shorter lenses.

I use an 80C filter to render tungsten-lit photos somewhat
warmly on slide materials (more natural-looking than full tungsten-to-daylight correction), with an acceptable 2/3
stop loss in film speed, but for color negative materials
I have never found it necessary to use any correction (with
the consequent speed loss) with either tungsten or flourescent
lighting - the corrections can (and should) be made by the lab
when printing. (Holler if the lab doesn't print with the color
balance you want - they should reprint the off-color photos.)
Hope This Helps