In article <4i3qed$fum@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, frontrise@aol.com says...
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From: frontrise@aol.com (FrontRise)
Newsgroups: rec.photo.misc
Subject: Re: Maximum Black
Date: 12 Mar 1996 07:24:45 -0500
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I have read a fair amount of debate on this issue over the years. After
thinking it over myself and having done a fair amount of darkroom work, I
have come down on the side of accepting the wisdom of printing for maximum
black.

I can remember the days when the densities of my negatives varried so much
that I had to do test strips for just about every contact sheet to get a
correct exposure. Even then, many contacts were over or under exposed.
Now, all of my contact prints get the exact same exposure (12 seconds with
the enlarger head at a constant height and at a constant aperture). If I
have made a mistake with my negative exposure or development, it is
immediately obvious when it comes time to make a contact print of it. This
is a big help in itself in that it makes errors very obvious.

If you think about, it makes sense that this technique should work. If you
find a printing time that just produces maximum black thru the film edge,
then all densities in the negative will create their appropriate tones in
the print according to their density in the negative. By looking at a
contact, you can see if you should move up or down in paper grades for a
particular negative. It can also point out if you are over or under
developing your negatives. In other words, it can show you a lot more than
just what you took a picture of. In fact, it can even go so far as to help
you identify a shutter that needs adjustment in a particular lens.

I might caution that when you are trying to find the correct exposure to
produce maximum black, that you should try very to find the MINIMUM time
necessary to do so. When you do a test strip, stop at the strip that just
does go to all black. Don't over-do it. I would rather have a an exposure
time that is just slightly to short than one that is too long.

By combining this technique with the Zone System, I have been producing
remarkably consistant negatives for years now. Virtually every one prints
just fine at 12 seconds. Even when I make enlargements, I know what the
exposure will be without making test strips.

[excellent post deleted, GO BACK AND READ IT!]
>So I encourage you to use this technique. It is a great learning tool.

I used to teach the making of a standardized contact sheet to
my students (back when I used to teach....) - it is, as you say,
extremely useful to have in hand a standard rendering of the
negatives when going to print, and it is a great teacher when
negatives don't fit well on a contact print made to one set of standards. I would only add to what you wrote that your standard
works for a diffusion enlarger. When using a condenser enlarger,
either use one grade harder than your normal for the contact
prints, or leave the film-edge rendering slightly above the
paper black (makes it easier the judge the contact print
standard, also), and the "look" of the contact print
images slightly "flat".
Hope This Helps