In article <5aj8nn$86h@panix2.panix.com>, khutch@panix.com says...

>Well, I've been lurking here for quite a while, and I've gotten a lot of
>questions answered, but I have a few more. There are quite a few here, so
>feel free to answer as few or as many as you like. Thank you very much is >advance!
>Quick background: I have been using a compact point and shoot (I call it
>an "idiot's delight")
>and am about to graduate to 35mm SLR. I'm looking at the Nikon line, because
>my father has an older Nikon with a few lenses, and due to compatability and
>his success with his Nikon, I'm looking at those. Anyway, here are the
>questions...

>1) Why do people refrigerate their film?

To slow ageing - it may be useful to age non-pro films for a while to allow them to reach peak, then freeze them. Remember to allow the film to reach ambient temperature before opening the seal, to prevent moisture condensation damage.

>2) Is there any appreciable difference between Kodak and Fuji film (assuming t
>he same speed?)

No. But each film has its own "character".

>3) What is the Quartz Date model? Is it just a matter of being able to
>stamp the date and time on the negative? The difference in price seems
>to be a lot for just that.

Yes, and yes - and why would anyone want numerals plopped into the image
area, except for scientific or legal purposes?!

>4) What is "three-point" auto-focus?

Just that - it allows the sellection of three different AF locations
in the frame.

>5) What is "six-zone" evaluative metering? And how is it different from
>center weighted and spot? And the Nikon says that in "metered manual" it
>is "9.5% partial metering". What's that?!

Center-weighted and spot refer to the metered area sizes in the camera viewfinder - the other ("matrix") divides the screen into zones, and
applies shifts to the raw exposure data (not necessarily an advantage...)
Nikon may be saying that the camera reverts to center-weighted pattern
in manual exposure mode, which is probably the most useful pattern and
mode for accurate exposure, once you have gained some exposure experience
(which is a tad difficult if using auto/program modes and with "matrix" metering...).

>6) What is the flash "top-sync speed"?

The highest shutter speed at which the whole frame will be exposed by
the flash (higher speeds will show the shadow of the partially closed
shutter). Slower speeds may be used with flash, also, to add more
available-light to the exposure (making it look more natural).

>7) I am looking at the Nikon N50 and the 6006. Does anyone know the
>differences between the two. I've gone to Nikon's home page, and don't
>really see much of a difference between the two. Basically, I'm a beginner >photographer, but I want to get a camera that will grow, in that, I plan on >possible taking a few classes on photography and will then need a camera for >more intermediate uses. What do you suggest between the N50 and the 6006?

An easy one: the 6006. the N50 is a glorified point-'n'-shoot, and too
limiting. The 6006 is very versatile, and good enough for even some pro use.

>8) Also, many places have the "kits" with the body. I noticed a rather
>large difference between the Nikon 35-80 and the 28-80 lens. Is it worth
>it? Does the 28mm lens make that much of a difference from 35mm?

These slow zooms are very limiting (though 28mm capability is more
interesting than 35mm...) I would buy the 50mm f1.8 AF - sharper, much
faster, and cheap. Add other lenses later.

>9) I also want a good zoom lens. Is it better to get 2 lenses (say a
>35-80, and a 80-200 or 80-300), or just one consolidated 35-200?

Primes (fixed) lenses are best, good short zoom-range zooms are generally
next in quality, and (most) wide-range zooms hover at the edge of uselessness
in terms of image quality (you may be better off with a more compact PNS).

>I realize these are a lot of questions, but I really want to make an
>informed decision before I biu. And I hate asking salespersons in the store, >because most of the time, they just want to make a sale.

This is often true, but there are good, helpful, knowledgeable salespeople
(I would try to patronize these people at this stage, and buy from the
large discount houses only later [if at all...], when you know more and do
not need to ask questions...)
Hope This Helps