Gerhard Haunold wrote in message <01bcf822$77232620$a69170c2@96061680.ppp>...

>Please recommend me a very sharp wide angle lens (diameter 52 mm) for a
>Sony Digital Handycam DCR VX 1000 E.


(It would help if you had a useable return e-mail address...)
There are two possibilities that I have found for this absolutely
essential accessory:
-- The Kenko .5X (VC-050-Hi, BUT there are unfortunately two
different versions of this with the same name! Elite Video and
B & H will both know which one [the one with the 3" front, for
the VX-1000], and B & H is cheaper...). This is a good
zoom-through converter that does not vignette at the short end
of the zoom range - unless your CCD is too far off center
(a too-common problem), and is best used at the short end with
the stabilizer turned off (to avoid "bouncing ball" effects if
moving/jiggling rapidly).
-- A generic series-VII fisheye converter (I have tried 5
different ones, and two were very sharp to the corners [all
will vignette at the short end of the zoom range, so you need
to turn off "steady shot" and zoom out until the vignetting
goes away]). Unfortunately the sharp ones I have are the
uncoated ones, and bright subject parts will repeat small
in the center of the image (anyone know anywhere I can get
elements multi-coated?). I found it helps field flatness to
shave the rear of the barrel as much as possible, to move
the rear element as far to the rear as possible (there is
usually a tiny set-screw in the adapter thread area that
releases the rear element ring threads), and to shave the
52mm -> Series VII adapter as much as possible (to get the
converter a bit nearer the front of the recessed VX-1000
lens).
To get the most out of these, this is what I do:
-- With the .5X kenko, it looks good to a bit short of the
corners with the lens wide-open when shooting interiors in
fairly low light, but when shooting detailed distant subjects
it is best to select "AE(A)" and f5.6, 6.8, or 8 for optimum
image quality (engage the ND filter if shutter speeds are
going too high). It also helps corner sharpness to zoom a bit
away from the shortest FL area. There is then very little loss
in image quality when using the converter.
-- With the fisheye, I do not zoom, and I try to avoid
back-light conditions. Image quality can then be excellent.
It is also best to use the fisheye at f5.6-8 for distant
detailed subjects.
-- I made a small curved lip that is rubber-banded to the
top of both converters and moved forward just enough to not
enter the image area - this helps to shade the optics from
the sun and bright sky areas.
For me, wide-angle video is a "without which, nothing", and
these solutions have been satisfactory for this sharpness
nut...;-)
Hope This Helps
David ruether - http://www.fcinet.com/ruether