On Sat, 26 Oct 2002 09:52:51 -0400, "Joseph S. Wisniewski" wrote:

>David Swinnard wrote:
>>
>> Will the Nikon 28mm PC lens work with the N90 (F90 actually) body? I've
>> lost my F90 manual and have been unable to easily access and answer.

>It will work with all the f3.5 versions. It will work with the older
>f4.0, as long as the serial number is above 180900. If you're serial
>number is below 180900, you'll need an area milled off the lens's mount.
>I've had good luck with John White in Michigan.
>
> http://www.aiconversions.com/
>
>No connection, just a satisfied customer.

He is good - but I've found that the early PCs just
nudge the camera AI ring a bit, with no damage - I
make sure the camera ring has not moved after
putting on the lens...

>I've tried more than one sample of both the f3.5 and the f4.0. I've
>always found the 3.5 to be sharper in the corners.
>
Odd - I've found the reverse, with several of each...
(See: www.David-Ruether-Photography.com/slemn.html).

>> If so, is metering done at working aperture in manual mode or...?

Yes.

>Put the camera in center weighted or spot metering.

Spot-metering is the quick way to poor exposure, unless
you take the slow route and take enough readings to
make the "spots" meaningful in the overall tonal range...

>Shift the lens back to neutral, open the lens wide, compose the picture,
>and focus. Adjust your polarizer, if you're using one.
>
>Stop the lens down, and meter. Lock these settings (or use manual mode).
>If you're spot metering, move the camera to get your spots, don't shift
>the lens.
>
>Shift the lens, recompose, and shoot.

The easiest way: use an F3, which will properly meter
the shifted lens (except at the extremes of shift),
leave the lens stopped down (or open/close to focus/
frame), and use scale focusing; with the N90 and others,
meter only with the lens centered...