In article <855932368.25829@dejanews.com>, mgglass@colby.edu says...

> I'm thinking about purchasing a Nikkor 35mm f2.8 perspective-
>control lens for architectural and landscape photography. (I'm
>hoping to avoid tilting-building-and-tree syndrome).
> This is new territory for me. Is it worth owning? Is it
>difficult to operate? Are the "tilting/shifting" adjustments
>visible through the finder?
> Any information/anecdotal advice would be much appreciated.

The latest-version Nikkor 35mm f2.8 is a really excellent lens
(sharp wide-open to the corners even with a couple of mm of shift,
though the full 11mm of rise/fall with horizontal frame-orientation
requires f8 to cover the corners sharply - and f22 in the vertical frame-orientation). PC's have no auto diaphragm, though I find the
"preset"-type easy to use. There is no tilt, only shift (in any
direction), but with wides, stopping well down generally cures DOF
problems. I also like the 28mm PC, though it is not optically as
good at wider stops (the older f4 version is sharper off-center
than the newer f3.5). The best body to use with a PC is the F3
(no linear distortion in the viewfinder [unlike most current cameras],
which makes framing/leveling more difficult), and the meter is accurate
with the lens shifted [short of extreme shift...] - with other bodies
you must meter with the lens unshifted, or use a hand meter). The
movements/shifts/perspective-effects are evident in the viewfinder,
but a grid screen makes it easier to line things up. Basically,
you set the camera/unshifted-lens level (true horizon dead center
in the frame), then shift to frame the subject. You may also shift
sideways (or with H/V combinations) to render off-center buildings
parallel with the frame, or to adjust element proportions in a
landscape. Welcome to the world of mini view-cameras! ;-)
Hope This Helps