Hi--

>Hi David. How's it going.

Oh, OK I guess....;-)

>I hate to impose on your generous nature. But since you are the only
>professional photographer I konw who's willing to give us bumbling
>amateurs pointers, I'd like to get your advice on something.

We all bumble...;-)

>Now thta I am "serious" about photography I have been shooting a lot of
>B&W's. I don't like the C-41 B&W films and prefer Tri-X 400 prnted on
>variable contrast paper. Tends to be somewhat expensive, especially since
>not many shots are actually keepers. I think it would make a lot more
>sense to develope and make my own contact sheet and spend the money on a
>few good 10x8 prints.
>
>This means I would have to venture into dark territories. I was thinking
>about getting a development tank and a contact sheet printer. Any advice
>for a newbie venturing into the dark room? For my purposes, what would be
>a good starter kit? What kind of paper would you recommend for making
>contact sheets?
>
>Thanks in advance. I'm planning a trip to SE Asia/the Himalayas in the
>near future. If I got great pictures I will post them on the web.
David Yang

->It takes some practice to make this all work <-, but an Alden or Watson bulk loader (avoid the Lloyd, since it uses a felt trap whick can scratch film), Kodak reloadable cartridges (a small percentage will scratch film, but after you have eliminated these, they last for many years if kept clean), a large air bulb blower, masking tape to hold the film end on the cartridge spindle, a two or four-reel Nikor tank and reels (buy about twice what you need, since about 1/2 are easy to load, the rest aren't worth keeping...), a couple of plastic pitchers to store chemicals in (orange juice pitchers with lids work well), a Kodak tank-and-tray thermometer is OK, some D-76, Kodak indicator stop bath, Kodafix, Dektol, Photo-flo, three 8x10 trays, a small-wattage bulb and socket that can be hung a couple of feet over the contact-print area (with a foot-switch), a red safelight bulb, a sheet of black paper and a sheet of padding (to put under the contact paper to reduce back reflections and to provide good negative-paper contact while the glass is being held down), a 1/4" thick sheet of plate glass (larger than the contact sheet), a package of Ilford glossy no. 2 or multigrade 8x10 RC paper, a and a timer should do it...!
;-)

Agitate for 20 seconds immediately after the developer is on the film - then
5-seconds every 30 seconds (be consistent!). Agitate continuously the first minute in the fixer. (Total safe time is 2-3 times the time it takes to clear
the film - the film is safe to look at soon after it goes into the fixer if the short-stop is fresh, but take care to agitate continuously that first minute.) Keep all developing chemical and water temperatures the same (70 is good), cut some time off the Kodak-recommended development, finish with a LITTLE photo-flo in distilled water, don't squeegee the film (also hang the paper to dry...). Develop the paper for at least 90 seconds with constant agitation.

For a trip, I would take pre-loaded film...
The above + instruction sheets should get you through.
For a trip like you are about to take, I would shoot slides...
(I've shot B&W on trips, and regretted it - prints are a pain to get made, and, well, there's no color...!;-) You can make B&W prints from slides (though it requires an enlarger or at least a slide duplicator attachment. Slides are easier to show to other people - at least, if you can get them into that darkened room...! ;-)
Have fun!