In <32503BC1.7A34@umich.edu>, "John C. Bilello" writes:

>I want to take some time exposures of equipment in a room lite only
>with fluorescent lights what kind of filter do I need for color film
>to get the color to look as natural as possible.

FL-D. Fluorescent to daylight conversion (assuming you are using
daylight film). **Note caveat below.

>I have same question
>for the case of onlystandard filament bulbs.

80A. 3200K tungsten to daylight.

>And what type of
>filter(s) for mixed fluorescent + standard filament.

**See below.

>Finally, would
>Cokin type be better than standard screw-in or vice versa. E-mail
>replies appreciated.

Cokin is not renowned for the accuracy of their colors. See

http://www.freestylesalesco.com/filterconversion.html

for a list of filters and their effects.

**Caveat: d_ruether@hotmail.com, who knows a lot more about this than I,
recently posted the following on this topic:
--------------------
Sean Yamamoto's post covers the FLW and FLB filters, but I am always amazed
that the FLD filter is considered adequate for flourescent correction, when
slides taken through it of subjects illuminated entirely by flourescents
remain quite off-color. The cc30 Magenta (available in Kodak gels [which can
be cut to fit behind a UV filter, or placed in a gel holder] or Tiffen glass
in standard rim sizes) does a good job of full correction under most
flourescent light (though I use the FLD when there is some daylight mixed
with the flourescent light, as in labs and classrooms). BTW, with color
negative materials, as with tungsten lighting, I find that no filter is
needed if the film is given a little extra exposure, and the lab takes
care of the balancing in printing.
Hope This Helps
--------------------
Andy Williams
andywlms@esslink.com http://www.esslink.com/~andywlms/index.html