Hi--

>> As I tried to point out in my post, going to the trouble of
>>having accurate meters saves me the time and expense of bracketing
>>(unless the exposure situation is too uncertain) - this
>>results in being able to get consistently good exposures directly,
>>without having to resort to the "shotgun" approach.

>Maybe you explained this in a previous post, but how do you verify the
>accuracy of your meter? What do you do if you find out that it is off?
>In his books, John Shaw suggests the sunny-16 rule to check the meter and
>using the ASA setting to adjust the meter for a correct sunny-16
>exposure. It sounds like he determines the required ASA adjustment for
>each of the film speeds that he typically uses on each of his camera
>bodies. Then he manually sets the ASA to the adjusted value depending on
>the film speed/body combination he is using. Is this what you do?
>Thanks,
>Danny Levenson -- levenson@vnet.ibm.com

I didn't explain it, but a good approach that I have found is to take
two accurately rated films, like K64 and Fuji 50, and do careful 1/3
stop brackets under different lighting conditions (meters can be non-linear
and be right at one light level and wrong at another). Grey cards are good to
have prominent in the photos, at the correct angle, with average subjects in
the background. If the meter is linear, apply a correction, if needed.
If the meter is not linear, apply a variable correction, if your memory
is good, or have the meter adjusted, if possible.
David Ruether