On Thu, 5 Dec 2002 21:54:08 +0200, "Dallas"
>Apart from a few little nicks here and there, this 1971 F2 looks really
>good (see www.eastcoast.co.za/dallas/F2Photomic.jpg for picture). The owner
>has given me the weekend to play with it.
>
>The first thing that struck me about it was the heft. It's seriously solid!
>The second thing was the fluid and direct feel of the film advance lever and
>smooth
>shutter action. This is mechanical quality I've never had the privilege
>of feeling before. Really impressive.
Not that I'm a Leica-rangefinder fan (I'm not!!! ;-), but it
makes the F2 mechanics feel relatively crude...;-) (I prefer
the F2 as a picture-taker, though...)
>So, I put two new batteries in the camera for the DP-1 Photomic finder and
>at first there was no action. A bit of a clean of the contacts with cotton
>buds and methylated spirits and then the metering started working. Cool!
Most "repairs" for these sturdy "oldsters" consist mainly
of cleaning...
>Lenses that came with the F2 are a Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 Micro, Nikkor 24mm
>f/2.8, Nikkor 35mm f/3.5 [???] and two versions of the Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 - one
>of these is an AI version and the other is pre-AI with a DC designation. Are
>these the
>legendary Nikkor portrait lenses? Bokeh looks awesome.
See www.David-Ruether-Photography.com/slemn.html for more on
the lenses (the only f3.5 35mm Nikkor was a PC lens...).
As for bokeh - since I like "bad" bokeh, I liked these lenses...;-)
>I also have a hot
>shoe attachment for
>flash, an extension tube for macro and a weird cable release. Unfortunately
>all the lenses have a bit of fungus on inner elements.
This is unfortunate - and probably responsible for
the "good" bokeh...;-) Try setting the lenses in the sun,
with diaphragms open - I've heard this can help...
>Now, Q&A time:
>
>1. Are there any limitations to the finders I can use on this body? In other
>words, would all the F2 finders work on a pre-AI F2?
Yes.
>2. I did a metering comparison with my EOS 30 set to centre weighted at
>f/5.6 on my 28-135mm IS zoom (at 105mm) and the F2 with the 105mm set to
>f/5.6. It would seem that the F2 is a couple of stops off in terms of
>shutter speeds I have to select to centre the needle. Is it possible to have
>the DP-1 calibrated?
Compare with the 24mm and the zoom at 28mm - the variable
aperture is confusing things a bit... Try the comparison
in different light levels - if the error is always the same,
the F2 can easily be made to agree. Set the controls
(including ASA) the same for both cameras (assuming the
Canon gives correct exposures on 100-speed slide film...),
loosen the three little screws around the top of the
shutter-speed/ASA dial, while metering the same
neutral-color smooth-toned area at the same angle, move
the loosened dial top until the meter needle centers, then
tighten the three screws... (But first, see below about
mounting lenses and setting the meter for each lens...)
>3. Is it possible to mount AF lenses on a pre-AI mount? I don't expect to
>get any kind of metering but that's why we have hand held meters, no?
You can both mount and meter with them! (Nikon USED
to believe past/future compatibility was important to
buyers...;-). Instead of rotating the lens aperture
ring after mounting a lens from smallest to widest stop
to set the meter for the particular lens speed, before
mounting the lens, stick your finder nail up into the
slot in the bottom front edge of the meter (you should
hear two clicks, and see "f5.6" in the small window).
Mount the lens, and hold the DOF preview button in
while metering...
>4. There appears to be a problem with the advance lever not remaining in the
>"on" position - it just snaps back to off, so unless I hold it open with my
>thumb, no power to the meter. Is this a common fault? Serious in any way?
Not serious, just awkward. A friction "detente" normally holds it out...
>I will see about getting a film or two run through this baby this weekend.
Check the shutter on a smooth-tone area at the top speed
to see if the exposure is even from one side to the other
(turn the camera upside down and shoot the same test to
see if it is the lighting or the shutter that is uneven...).
Also check focus accuracy (shoot wide-open a fairly close
subject with a little depth, remembering what part you
focused on - and do this 3-4 times for reliability...).