"KJ"
<kjjones@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e9c88589.0307140813.6b841ab8@posting.google.com...
>
"David Ruether" <rpn1@no-junk.cornell.edu> wrote in message
news:<benael$io0$1@news01.cit.cornell.edu>...
>
> You risk vignetting (and *possibly* reduced corner sharpness)
>
> by adding extra spacing between the lens and zoom-through
>
> WA converter (with non-zoom-through types, extra spacing
>
> sometimes improves corner performance, at least on the cameras
>
> I've tried it on [many, with many converters...]).
> I
think the HG0737x is a zoom-through, at least with the trv-840.
It is
with all lenses it fits...
>
> You can get most
>
> filters in thin "gel" form in squares, and cut to size and drop
these in
>
> behind the WA converter - I do this when shooting infrared.
>
> Dust can be a problem, though.
> I
found some ND gel filters at B&H that could work - do you just trim
>
them to fit over the glass lens, inside the ring, or..?
Cut
them to fit just inside the filter threads, so the fit is tight nowhere, but
the
filter is kept reasonably flat when retained by a screw-in accessory
(like
the WA converter).
>
> With the HG0737, I found a Hoya
>
> 72mm circular polarizer neatly press-fits on the front (I use a few
>
> pieces of masking tape to secure it).
> I
like this idea better, although the cost of 72mm is higher that
>
37mm. I'm only looking for a star (and then only if someone confirms
>
there will be candles at the reception), an ND (decrease depth of
>
focus), and perhaps a polarizer for outdoors. A center spot might be
> an
option for the 1st dance.
I
prefer simpler shooting techniques...;-)
Star
filters often must be used at smaller stops for best results (sharpness
and
point length) - and this is impractical indoors (your lens will be wide
open
much of the time). A polarizer is useful for perking up the color of
1-CCD
cameras, but is useless inside (you lose about 1.5 stops, plus the
lighting
does not favor polarization). With a camera that does not permit
selection
of aperture (or tell you what is selected in auto), ND filters can
get you
into trouble (higher gain, with poorer color), with little gain with
the
tiny CCDs (DOF is great unless focusing very close with the lens near
full
tele, and wide-open...).
>
Running low on time to play, though...
I would
use simpler techniques, letting good composition and
editing
tell the story. I regard "effects" as distractions, useful only
when I
need to cover up something...;-) Go with the WA only,
and you
can produce some good images with that camera (so
long as
the light level is high enough). Take off the converter
for the
longest-lens shots, when possible and desirable. Keep all
glass
surfaces free of dust, or you will see "bugs" floating in your
images...;-)
--
David Ruether
d_ruether@hotmail.com
http://www.David-Ruether-Photography.com
Hey, take a gander at www.visitithaca.com,
too...!